Destination Guide to Nicosia (Lefcosia)
 

Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus, is one of the oldest cities in this part of the world. Today it is sophisticated and cosmopolitan place, combining its historic past with the amenities of a modern city. It lies roughly in the centre of the island in the Mesaoria Plain, flanked by the beautiful northern range of Kyrenia Mountains with its distinctive 'Pentadaktylos" - the five finger mountain. There are various suggestions as to the origin of the name Nicosia - or 'Lefkosia' in Greek - but the most likely one is linked to the popular tree, the tall 'Lefki', which once adorned the city.

Nicosia is the last divided city of Europe.  It is today divided into Turkish and Greek sectors by a boundary known as the `Green Line' which runs in an east-west direction. The people of Nicosia hope that one day the city will be reunited

Huge, thick ramparts, built by the Venetians in 1570 encircle the city.  The city walls are three and a half miles long and have eleven towers and three gates. Within these walls are numerous remains from the Middle Ages and later periods.  Outside, there is no trace of the medieval settlement that once existed as materials from those buildings were used at various points in time to restore and maintain the walls. To walk through the old city is to step backwards in time. Narrow streets and old houses with ornate balconies jut from weather-beaten sandstone walls and craftsmen in small workshops practice trades that have remained unchanged for centuries.

The heart of the city, within the 16th century Venetian walls has a number of interesting museums and art galleries as well as Byzantine churches and a number of medieval and neo-classical buildings.  The narrow streets retain a romantic atmosphere of the past. Much of the charm and beauty of Nicosia is to be found in the old city with its labyrinthine alleyways and elegant courtyard houses. Outside the walls the new city with its modern facilities is a cosmopolitan centre of a modern European capital.

During the British domination (1878 - 1960) the city started to spread beyond the walls. The British first built administrative premises outside the walls but since then residential regions developed beyond the fortifications and joined with the surrounding villages, resulting in a change of the city's housing network.

The city of Nicosia has a great variety of tourist attractions. The Lefkosia Jewellery Museum, the Museum of the History of the Cypriot Coinage and the Municipal Arts Centre, are all worth a visit. The Cyprus Museum houses the island's most important collection of Cypriot antiquities and treasures from the Neolithic Age to the Roman.

Modern Nicosia offers all the facilities you would expect - excellent hotels, restaurants, nightclubs and shops.

The oldest documentation we have concerning Nicosia within the walls, dates back to 1567, when the Venetians took over the island, and built the fortification with the eleven bastions, that one can still be seen today. Nicosia though, has a history dating long before that period, and has been the capital of the island since 1192, when a French Royal family, the Lusignans, made it their capital. They built an important number of monuments, such as churches, monasteries, palaces etc. We also know that Nicosia had 250 churches, and that the town was much larger than the one built by the Venetians, who had destroyed a large number of original buildings to construct the fortifications.
 
Nicosia today, has nothing really left of the French period, except the churches, and what one still sees is the structure of the town after the Venetians. The town planning was a result of a way of living: narrow streets with houses built next to each other. The buildings we see today basically date from the end of the 18th and 19th centuries, and they have all the characteristics of houses built within fortifications. Their design is also proof that architecture has managed to combine both worlds, the East and the West. Greek, French, Venetian and Turkish details, all mix in a typical Cypriot expression. The basic materials used for the buildings were wood, sandstone, and mud brick. The combination of all these different materials gives us today an example of fine architecture.

Until 1960, old Nicosia still retained all these characteristics, which gave the city its architectural character. In the next 20 years, Nicosia experienced a series of transformations both in the natural environment, as well as in the social environment, due to the demanding pressure for the development of the city.

The sudden change, found the city unprepared and unable to cope with the new needs. As a result of this change, the sudden development caused serious destruction to the historical character of the city. The "green line" divided the walled city, and aggravated the situation, by literally cutting in two the historical center, thus creating a problem to the city itself, and to all those who had to abandon their homes, because of the proximity of the green line. Gradually, the old town, - that once was full of life and commercial activity, is abandoned, and people look for solutions outside the fortifications.

The old part of the city, our historical center, was withering away, and problems within the walls just increased every day - traffic, lack of green areas, difficult living conditions and other problems. The Government of Cyprus, being aware of the problem the old city faced every day, decided in 1977 to expropriate the area of Laiki Yitonia, a small area not bigger than 1000 square meters. The main aim was to breathe new life to the city within the walls, by creating a nucleus with a very strong folkloric character that would combine commercial and cultural activities. The basic scope of our government was to give a real example for the revival of the old city that would guide the way to a development of Nicosia, which would also safeguard in this way, its architectural character and its tradition.
 
This restored area of the old city is the pride of all Nicosians and the center of the capital’s life. Restoration began in 1981, and included renewal and reconstruction of all structures within the target area. Now the streets are lined with small art-and-craft shops, boutiques and galleries. The project won 1988 the “Pomme d’Or”, a prestigious biennial international prize.
 
The Famagusta Gate, Nicosia  

The bustling city of Nicosia (Lefkosia) in the northern interior has been the capital of Cyprus since the 12th century. It stands today as Europe's only divided city, being split in two by the 'Green Line', a United Nations buffer zone that divides the government-controlled south from the northern section of the island that has been occupied by Turkey since 1974. The modern city centre is surrounded by elegant tree-lined suburbs, but the favoured tourist sector is the old town, which is being extensively renovated. The old town is a picturesque fusion of 16th-century walls, pedestrian precincts, pavement cafes and squares, brimming with charm, character and sightseeing opportunities. The city, on the Mesaoria Plain, is centre of the Nicosia District that includes the valleys of Solea and Pitsilia and parts of Marathasa with its mountain villages, orchards, hill resorts and plethora of Byzantine churches and monasteries. These are within easy reach making a pleasant day trip from the city.

Without a doubt, Nicosia the 1000-year-old capital of Cyprus should be on every visitor's agenda. It lies roughly in the center of the island; within easy reach of the other towns and a day in Nicosia will be a day well spent.

The old walled city of Nicosia is unique and definitely the place to head for first. Encircled by strong fortress walls built by the Venetians in the 16th century, the enchanting old city is scattered with buildings and monuments of historical interest as well as little shops, cafés and tavernas.

The Nicosia Jewels Museum and the Municipal Arts Center are both well worth a visit. The 'Levention' Municipal Museum, with an imaginative presentation of the capital's history, was awarded the title "1991 European Museum of the Year".

To walk through the old city is to step backwards in time. Narrow streets and old houses with ornate balconies jut from weather beaten sandstone walls, smell of jasmine flowers in those long summer evenings, and craftsmen in small workshops practice trades unchanged for centuries. 'Laiki Yitonia' - Folk Neighborhood - is a pedestrian section, which has been carefully renovated to evoke the atmosphere of past days. The two main streets of old Nicosia, Ledra and Onasagorou, are lined with shops of every type, and both streets are pedestrian - only.

Not to be missed is the unique Cyprus Museum, housing the island's most important collection of Cypriot antiquities and treasures from the Neolithic Age to the Roman Period. In contrast to these ancient finds is the State Collection of Contemporary Art, and on the other side of town, just off the main Limassol road, is the Cyprus Handicraft Center.

Another award winner is the city's renovated 'Pyli Ammochostou' - Famagusta Gate - one of the original entrances to the old city, which won the Europa Nostra award for its restoration. Many old churches are to be found in this part of town, and other places of interest are the Folk Art and Byzantine Museums, the Archbish's palace, the Cathedral of Ayios Ioannis with its beautiful frescoes, the National Struggle Museum and the intriguing house of Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios - a fine example of l8th century architecture - which houses the Ethnological Museum.

Not far from these monuments is the infamous 'Green Line' that divides the Republic from the illegally occupied area to the north. It has been in existence since 1974 when Turkish troops invaded the island and claimed 37% of northern Cyprus as a breakaway pseudo-state that has since been recognized by no nation, other than Turkey.

The modern city that has developed outside the walls is a cosmopolitan center of business and culture. Nicosia is regarded as the shopping heart of Cyprus, with a variety of restaurants, discos and bars. Within easy reach of the capital are such historic gems as the l2th century painted church of Asinou, the picturesque monasteries (Makheras, Ayios Iraklidios), the regal tombs at Tamassos, the ancient city-kingdom of Idalion and the enchanting villages of Fikardou and Kakopetria.
 
 
Nicosia Shopping  
 
The main shopping areas in Nicosia are Arch. Makarios Avenue, the parallel street behind it, Stasikratous Street, and Ledra Street. In addition to shopping for handicrafts, embroidery, pottery and other local made items, visitors to Nicosia might like to take advantage of the capital's modern commercial centers to buy such items as the latest design fashions, prescription eye wear, perfumes and liqueurs, many of which are less costly here than in Europe.

Main shopping area within the ancient city walls is on Ledra Street, a narrow pedestrian street ending at an army post, on the Green Line. The street is lined with many small shops, and some rather good footwear outlets. Several handicraft shops sell silver, copper and lace. There are also department stores selling the latest in fashion, nice cafeterias and snack bars.

For a different experience you might want to try Makarios avenue, where you will find Stefanel, Benetton, Ermes and Marks & Spencer.

Stasikratous Street is known for its attractive and rather expensive boutiques, selling high quality clothes and shoes as well as silverware, fine porcelain and imported oriental clothes.

If you follow Makarios Avenue until the end and then turn right, you will get to Eleftheria Square, which leads to the central part of the town. Most of the shopping area in the old part of Nicosia is now pedestrian way so it is easy to ramble through the zigzag streets of the town especially Laiki Yitonia which is of particular interest to travelers who want a taste of Cypriot culture. Laiki Yitonia is a renovated eighteenth century enclave where local artisans and craftsmen display their wares along cobblestone lanes. Here too bougainvillea laced restaurants beckon with the aroma of roast lamb and Greek coffee.

If you go back to Eleftheria Square and follow the walls past the Town Hall and Post Office you will arrive at Eleftherios Venizelos Square, otherwise known as "OHI" square. There, an open market takes place every Wednesday. It is particularly colorful and worth a visit.

At the corner of Digheni Street and Theodotou Street, south-east of the old city, you will find the open market.

Nicosia provides a more varied urban scene, with more black-clad bohemians than blonds in bikinis, but the same Euro DJs mixing house tracks. Most entertainment spots are in Laiki Yitonia and west of the center, along George Grivas Ave. Behind Ledra Hotel there is a ten-lane bowling alley, always very crowded on weekends. Not far from there is the Nicosia international fair ground. In Engomi, slightly more than a mile from the center, there are two discos: Africana Disco and Scorpios Disco. Young people mostly frequent the Eleftheria Street, where many pubs are, but also the main shopping areas.

It is a good idea to shop around before buying and once you begin you will realize just how much there is to see. Take your time and relax while shopping. From shoes to spectacles to clothes, you are bound to find something to suit your taste and pocket and at the same time you will discover a little of the daily life in the capital.

Before shopping remember that in winter, shops open from 8.30-13.00 hrs and from 14.30-17.30 hrs. They are closed on Wednesday and Saturday afternoon. In the summer, shops open from 8.30-13.00 hrs and 16.00-19.00 hrs; again no shops in the afternoon of Wednesday and Saturday, except sometimes in Laiki Yitonia.
 
 
Eating Out
 
In the old city part of Laiki Yitonia you will easily find dozens of nice restaurants, mostly traditional meze restaurants, some with 'buzuki bands'. Often a waiter is posted at the entrance to entice passers-by to venture in. Do not feel forced to enter, but do not avoid entering either, most of them are really fine, although a bit more expensive.
 
George Grivas Avenue is lined with restaurants, always packed with a local young crowd. In the modern shopping area of Makarios III Ave. you will find several pleasant cafés.
 
 
Sights
 
Within an hours walk starting from Laiki Yitonia and strolling through the old city you will get a good impression of what happened to this extraordinary city during the last centuries.
 
 
Cyprus Museum
 
Near the Pafos Gate (west of the old city), inside the city gardens, you will find the Cyprus Museum. Built in 1908, the Cyprus Museum is the most important archeological museum on the island, and it is highly recommended. It exhibits stone jars of the 6th millennium BC, a marble statue of Aphrodite (from Soli, 1st century BC) and a gold sceptre (11th century BC)
Address:
Stylianos Lenas Square, corner of Museum Street and Homer Ave.
Tel. 02 - 302 189
Opening Hours:
Mon - Sat 9am - 5pm and Sun 10am - 1pm.

 

Panagia Phaneromeni Church
 
Situated in Onasagoras Street this fine Orthodox Church will draw your attention. It was rebuild on ancient remains (1300 AD) at the end of the 19th century (1872/73). In 1938 a new bell tower was added and its bells were brought from England in 1940/41.

The church was named after a nunnery of the same name, which once stood on this spot. It belonged to Panayia (Virgin Mary) Phanoromeni and the nuns were silk weavers who were engaged in charitable works.

After the ottoman occupation of Cyprus in 1571, the Turks attempted to turn the church into a mosque. They were more.
 
 
Museum of National Struggle
 
Within the Cultural Centre you will find also the Museum of National Struggle, dedicated to the war of independence against the British.
Opening Hours:

Mon - Fri 7.30am - 2.30am and 3pm - 5.30pm.
Entrance fee.
Tel. 02 - 302 465


Archbishopric Palace

Not as its name assumed, the Archbishopric Palace is a modern, impressive mansion, built in Byzantine style (1955 - 60). Corner of Kyprianos and Zenon of Kitium Streets. Inside you’ll find the Byzantine Museum with an impressive collection of Cypriotic Icons.
 
 
Sculpture at Hellenic Bank
 
Situated in the entrance of Nicosia, The Hellenic Bank offices is not a building one would want to write home about. It is built in a post modern pastiche style, mimicking the grand orders of commercial classicist architecture of the 80s. On second look though, there is a public sculpture by, I found later, the star of the Cyprus artistic avant guarde, Helene Black. The sculpture consists of 12 stainless steel overcalled flowers with a 13th giant flower situated in the centre of the square. The flower is a joy to investigate in different times of the day as it slowly opens and more.
 
 
Byzantine Museum
 
The Byzantine Museum is housed by the Centre of the Archbishop Makarios III Foundation east of Laiki Yitonia. It exhibits a very rich collection of statues, paintings and fragments. They date from a period ranging from the 8th to the 18th century. It depicts the development of decorative arts in Cyprus from their crudest Early Middle Age expression to their 12th century peak. The influence of European Crusaders, and later of Venetian traders, is evident. During the Ottoman period (16th - 19th century) the figurative arts, and specially sculpture, were neglected and practically more...

 
Agios Ioannis Cathedral
 
North of the Bishopric Palace you will find this Greek Orthodox Church. Built in 1662 on the foundations of a 15th century Benedictine Monastery, its impressive interiors house a series of reproductions of 18th century works of art.
 
Opening hours:
Mon - Sat 8am - noon and 2pm - 4pm. Entrance free.
 
 
Leventis Municipal Museum
 
At 17 Ippokratous Street you will see this museum, which is resident in a very accurately restored 19th century building. It houses an interesting presentation of daily Nicosians life throughout the ages. 
Opening hours:
Tue – Sun 10am – 4.30pm.
Free entrance.
 
 
Museum of Folk Art
 
This museum is accommodated in a 15th century Benedictine monastery. Its halls contain a collection of Benedictine relics, ancient farming tools, religious art objects, Lefkaritika and other lace and Foini earthenware.
 
 
Ledra Museum & Observatory
 
This museum combines a modern museum with an unhindered and beautiful view of the entire city. It can be found on the 11th floor of the Shacolas Tower. The exhibition - a cooperation with the Leventis Museum of Nicosia and the Woolworth Group - shows photographs and descriptions of Old Nicosia, a multilingual taped history and telescopes.
Address: Corner Ledras & Arsinoes Streets
Tel. 02 - 369 369
Opening Hours: daily from 10am to 8pm
Admission fee: 25 cents required